Before a Long Run — and After: An Aceca Checklist

The day before: the unhurried checks

• Engine oil — check the dipstick and top up to the mark with the right grade. The Bristol engine in particular thrives on clean oil, so don't set off on tired oil; if an oil cooler is fitted, allow for it.
• Coolant — check the level cold and top up with the correct mix.
• Brake fluid — check the master-cylinder level; a dropping level means investigate before you go.
• Tyres — set the pressures cold (including the spare) and look hard at tread and sidewalls; age matters as much as tread on a classic.
• Battery — topped up if needed, secure, terminals clean and tight.
• Lights, wipers and horn — walk round and check the lot.

Under the bonnet: the pre-trip look

• Belt — check the fan/dynamo belt's tension and condition; no fraying or glazing.
• Hoses — squeeze the radiator hoses; soft, weepy or perished ones let go on a hot run.
• Leaks — look under the car for fresh oil, coolant or fuel.
• Charging — start up and confirm the dynamo is charging: the ignition warning light should go out as you raise the revs, and the ammeter show a charge. A light that stays on means investigate before you travel.
• Fuel — enough to reach a station.

The Aceca quirks worth a check

• Triple Solex carburettors — they should be balanced and pulling evenly; a long run soon shows up a set that has drifted out of balance. See balancing the triple carburettors and the Solex reference.
• Spark plugs — the Bristol six uses unusual 10 mm plugs whose originals are long gone; owners run motorcycle plugs, so carry a spare set, they are small and cheap.
• Positive earth — many of these cars are positive earth; confirm yours and get the polarity right before connecting a battery pack or jump leads.
• Cooling — check the level cold; the Bristol engine has two drain taps if you ever need to drain it. See cooling-system care.
• Alloy body — don't overload it, and be mindful of water traps in the ash frame; a wet weekend is worth a dry-out afterwards. See alloy-body corrosion care.

Spares worth carrying

• A spare set of 10 mm (motorcycle) plugs, a fan belt, points and a condenser, assorted bulbs and fuses, a length of fuel hose and clips, insulating tape.
• Plus the basics: toolkit, tyre pressure gauge, torch, gloves, rag, a bottle of the right oil, pre-mixed coolant and water.

On the road

• Watch the gauges — temperature steady, oil pressure healthy, ammeter charging.
• Listen for new rattles or knocks, and note any change in the exhaust note or carburettor balance.
• Smell for hot oil, coolant, fuel or electrics.
• Take a shakedown stop after the first twenty or thirty minutes: a look for leaks and anything working loose while it's warm.

When you get back: the post-trip check

• Look underneath for fresh leaks the trip has brought on.
• Re-check the levels once cooled — oil and coolant — since a run can reveal a slow loss.
• Walk round for anything worked loose, a blown bulb or a weeping hose.
• Note what needs attention in the car's history file while it's fresh — a wandering gauge, a stiff change, a new noise, carburettors that need rebalancing — so it's on the list before the next outing.
• Wipe it down (especially after rain), dry out any damp, and put it away with a good amount of fuel to keep condensation from the tank.

A general guide to adapt to your own car, not a substitute for the official Workshop Manual or the AC and Bristol Owners Clubs.